El Perú es un lugar chicha, desordenado y supersticioso donde nunca cambia nada, pero donde se puede encontrar la curación mágica para consiguir la fortaleza de vencer afuera
Hildegard Willer

Hildegard Willer

 

Cuestión de fe Lima - El pueblo, cuyo nombre parece haberse escapado de un cuento de las Mil y una noches, está despertando con nuestra llegada. Nuestro grupo ocasional de viajeros se sienta alrededor de la vieja mesa de madera de la casa campesina. Bajo la mesa, un gato y un gallo se están peleando el espacio, y la dueña de la casa prende la leña para preparar el desayuno. A las 6 de la madrugada, y a 3.000 metros de altura, nada mejor que la expectativa de poder calentarse con un rico café; un café que despierta además los ánimos. Salalá, para revelar el misterio, no se encuentra en el Oriente, sino a hora y media de Huancabamba, capital "esotérica" en la sierra de Piura. Capital "bruja" le dicen otros. No importa. Nosotros somos creyentes, o por lo menos agnósticos dubitativos, y queremos ver con nuestros propios ojos si las aguas benditas o malditas de la Laguna Negra de las Huaringas cumplen con las promesas de su poder curativo. A las 4 de la mañana habíamos partido de Huancabamba en una combi, para parar ahora en Salalá a tomar desayuno obligatorio en la casa de la cuñada del chofer: allí está Manuel Aponte de Piura, el guía chamán; Pepe Córdova, profesor jubilado del vecino Ecuador, chamán aficionado y converso a los poderes curativos de Las Huaringas; Aron, un joven taxista de Piura que sube a las Huaringas cada vez que reúne el dinero necesario con sus cachuelos; dos periodistas alemanes y su productora peruana que están filmando un documental sobre chamanes en el Perú; y una señora de Piura con su hija, una chica de unos 20 años, de una belleza extraordinaria. Durante el viaje desde Huancabamba, ella había escondido su rostro pálido bajo un gorro negro, como si se avergonzara de hacer este peregrinaje a la Laguna Negra. Ahora, a la luz naciente de la madrugada y con una taza de café caliente en la mano, parece sacudirse de su estado apático y, de repente, una torrente de palabras sale de su boca: dice que está viviendo en Europa desde hace 9 años, que ahora tiene 25, y que desde hace cuatro está casada con un sueco y viviendo en Suecia. Que Suecia es un país muy oscuro, que después de las siete de la noche sus calles están muertas, que hace mucho frío. Y que toma antidepresivos desde hace años. Lo dice sin la menor vergüenza, pero con una tristeza sin fondo. Que a su esposo no le gusta el Perú, que todo acá le parece sucio, que está harta de él, que él no sale de su casa y además que él también toma antidepresivos, como si fuera normal que los suecos tomen antidepresivos con el desayuno. Al fin de cuentas, ahora está en Piura, visitando a su mamá, que estando acá se siente bien y no necesita antidepresivos, y que ella quiere vivir. Pero esa no es la solución, ¿no? En el grupo nadie dice nada, nadie pregunta por qué sube a la Laguna Negra, sería de más. Porque si unos suben a las Huaringas para curarse de un susto, de una maldición, de un mal de amores, de mala suerte en los negocios... ¿por qué no subir para arrancarse la nostalgia? El gabinete del Dr. AponteEn realidad, la historia había comenzado dos noches antes en Piura. Porque no se puede subir así nomás a Las Huaringas. Es decir, se puede hacer, pero sería como ir de frente al santuario sin haber acudido a las estaciones de oración anteriores. El efecto curativo podría verse disminuido. Por eso, antes de subir a las lagunas, hay que participar en una "mesa" dirigida por un chamán, precisamente el mismo que después subirá con nosotros. La casa de nuestro curandero se ubica en un suburbio de Piura. Después de pasar por la sala y la cocina donde te saludan tres generaciones de mujeres dedicadas a tareas domésticas o a mirar la televisión, te llevan a un patio con corrales de gallos de pelea. De la casa trasera sale el maestro curandero a saludarnos. Marino Aponte no es cualquier curandero; en un pueblo como Piura, donde éstos abundan, Aponte es considerado un "maestro"; se trata de un hombre de unos 60 años, un poco panzón, pero lejos de parecer viejo, es bigotudo y tiene un tufillo de "espíritu vinícola". El sencillo salón donde hace sus "mesas" deja boquiabierto a cualquiera: es el equivalente chicha-postmoderno del Perú a inicios del siglo XXI, de una capilla rococó o barroca de cuatro siglos atrás. Ni un espacio en la pared de cemento está sin adornos: pero en vez de angelitos desnudos dorados, lo pueblan miles de fotos de personas que han acudido con la esperanza de ser curados; bolsitas con huesos, una tijera, rosarios, cruces penden de los muros; un gran afiche rinde homenaje al santo local, el Señor Cautivo de Ayabaca, otro al difunto Juan Pablo II, otro al ex candidato Ollanta Humala y al costado de esta trinidad chicha no podía faltar el retrato del mismísimo maestro Aponte. Hasta la Santa Familia -un Jesús rubiecito, un José barbudo y la Virgen Mamá- exhibe en su corazón el retrato del candidato Ollanta. Así como no faltan los signos de qué político favorecerán los santos reunidos, tampoco faltan signos visibles de la mesocracia del curandero, es decir, tampoco el maestro Aponte vive sólo de los espíritus: una tarjeta de Cash Wiese del famoso Banco Wiese-Sudameris se posa en una pared; en la otra, un almanaque publicitario de los que se regalan a los mejores clientes a final de año reza: "El Maestro Aponte Adrianzén desea una Feliz Navidad", número de teléfono incluido. Encima de un escritorio se exhibe un letrero, de los que suelen tener los médicos en sus consultorios, "Marino Aponte Adrianzén. Parasicólogo herbolario". Y por supuesto no faltan los certificados enmarcados de haber participado en "ene" congresos de curanderos. No queda ninguna duda de que el maestro Aponte es una persona que sabe combinar el curanderismo con el comercio, la creencia tradicional con la ciencia.La "mesa" misma consiste en la construcción de un pequeño altar en el suelo, donde se colocan distintos tipos de conchas, de espadas de madera, de limas, flores y colonias. Lo que sigue es un rito que los antropólogos probablemente describirían como sincrético: la invocación de santos, curanderos, beatos, diablos y familiares; el acto de entrar en trance con ayuda del jugo del cactus San Pedro y la "zingada" de tabaco macerado; el extraño baile que consiste en golpear con los pies, acompañado por el sonido de campanitas y una armónica, y después el centro del ritual: la "limpia" y el "florecimiento". La limpia consiste en que el curandero te pasa la espada por todos los costados para limpiarte de los malos espíritus; y después te rocía con alguna colonia barata para protegerte de futuros malos espíritus. Lo que debe ser un tesoro de ritos raros para los antropólogos, para el espectador profano es una simple cuestión de fe. Lo mismo si vas a una misa o un culto: lo crees o no lo crees. Nadie te ahorra este salto sobre la "brecha infame" de Kierkegaard. Para ver si podemos dar este salto es que subimos a Las Huaringas. Laguna Negra Después del desayuno en Salalá entre gallos y perros, escuchando la triste historia de la bella piurana en Suecia, seguimos hora y media más en combi por un camino que cada kilómetro merece menos este nombre, hasta llegar al fin de toda cosa carrozable. Seis niños campesinos con caballos nos esperan. Nos encontramos en medio de una puna, con un viento gélido que te rompe los huesos; mientras tanto el poco sol se desvanece detrás de unos nubarrones grises y amenazantes. Una hora más a pie o a caballo a través de la puna agreste hasta que vislumbramos la Laguna Negra, la laguna más famosa del complejo de lagunas mágicas de llamadas "Las Huaringas". ¿Cómo describirla? Primero, que literalmente la laguna "negra" es así. Nada de sol andino, nada de apus amables. La laguna negra, rodeada de cerros desnudos y amenazantes y con un cielo cubierto por nubarrones, podría servir de bastidor perfecto para una de estas películas misteriosas que tanto están de moda: el grito, la casa en la laguna, o algo parecido. Segundo: la laguna, supuesto atractivo turístico número uno de la capital "esotérica" Huancabamba, no tiene ni siquiera un kiosco que venda comida; y para decir esto de un lugar en el Perú, tiene que ser bastante especial. El único signo de encontramos en el siglo XXI es un recogedor metálico de basura que alguna municipalidad ha colocado en este lugar abandonado como primera medida de un hipotético plan de desarrollo turístico. Tercero: la magia del lugar consiste en sumergirse al lago; no una sola vez, sino siete veces. Sólo que nadie te ha dicho antes que el frío y el viento son tan helados que tienes que tener alma de buceador ruso, una fe inquebrantable o bien una desesperanza insuperable (o mejor los tres) para desvestirte en medio de semejante frío y tomar un baño helado. Algunos de nuestro grupo lo tienen. Nuestro maestro curandero, el amigo del Ecuador y la belleza piurana y su madre se arman de valentía, de unas letanías a los apus, unas zingadas de tabaco y sorbos de vino barato y entran al agua. Mientras que los dos que más habían hecho alarde de bañarse en la plenitud de la helada -el joven taxista y la periodista alemana- se "chuparon". Cuando la señora María, la madre de la triste peruano-sueca, sale del agua casi no puede hablar: "no siento mi cuerpo" es lo único que logra decir. El resto es poco espectacular: los bañadores se visten, el curandero ecuatoriano llena unos doce bidones con el agua santa de la laguna para llevársela a su tierra y así, cargados, emprendemos el camino de regreso. Miguel, el joven campesino que nos guía de regreso, no está para nada impresionado por la laguna. Más preocupado está por la propina que espera ganar con el servicio de guía. Como tantos jóvenes campesinos, él no ha terminado el colegio y sueña con encontrar la suerte en la ciudad. La magia de la laguna le es cosa cotidiana frente a las promesas de una vida moderna. "Y dígame", me pregunta, "¿desde la ciudad no me pueden enviar una crema contra mis manchas en la piel ?" Parece que los apus y chamanes no sirven para cuestiones de belleza. Y lo bello, lo deseado, se encuentra siempre en otro lugar, en otro mundo. Confesiones de una madreEl regreso en combi hacia Huancabamba se realiza en silencio. Los que se han sumergido al agua tienen que calentarse o procesar su encuentro con la magia. Y los otros, los agnósticos y los que se "chuparon", tampoco están con muchas ganas de hablar. Al final, el espectáculo no era el que habían esperado los periodistas alemanes, ávidos de imágenes novísimas, perfectas y capaces de captar la atención de un espectador europeo sobresaturado. Silencio, hasta que la combi se para en el camino, algún desperfecto, todavía a una hora de camino del próximo pueblo. Los hombres de nuestro grupo compiten con el chofer para encontrarle una solución casera al problema del auto. Y las mujeres nos ponemos a conversar. Ahora es el turno de la señora María, la madre de nuestra belleza depresiva. Es una mujer hecha y derecha, calurosa y amable, además de una comerciante exitosa en Piura. No menciona a un marido, parece que no tiene; o si tiene, que no juega un mayor papel en su vida. Ella admite que desde hace años acude al maestro Aponte con cualquier tipo de problema, problemas de comercio y otros. Esta vez, se siente muy afligida. Es su hija la que sufre. Poco a poco cuenta de sus tres hijos, dos varones además de quien la acompaña. Que los tres están viviendo afuera, un hijo estudiando en Estados Unidos, otro en España, además de la hija. Que esta última se había ido a los 16 años a Europa, buscando suerte. Su voz se llena de orgullo de sus hijos jóvenes, conquistadores del viejo mundo. Pero de repente cambia de tema. Que ella era testigo de cómo les iba a los jóvenes que se han quedado en Piura. Que las parejas de años no se pueden casar porque no ganan lo suficiente para formar un hogar propio. Que como profesionales no encuentran trabajo. Que un chico vecino se metió en una pandilla. Es como una expiación de razones porque sus hijos están mejor estando afuera, como que allá tienen oportunidades que en el país no tendrían. Sólo que su hija -que está escuchando todo sin decir nada- está a su lado y es evidente que no se encuentra bien. Es evidente que la madre no dice toda la verdad. Ella, hasta ahora, no ha encontrado la gran suerte en Suecia, España o donde sea. Pero quedarse en el Perú se encuentra fuera de las soluciones posibles. Están pensando que puede ir a España, donde está el hermano. Todo mejor que quedarse en el Perú. El Perú, esto es Piura; Piura es Huancabamba; Huancabamba es Las Huaringas. El Perú es un lugar chicha, desordenado y supersticioso donde nunca cambia nada, pero donde puedes encontrar la curación mágica para que consigas la fortaleza de vencer afuera. No les pregunté, pero estoy segura de que fue esto lo que han venido a buscar de los espíritus en Las Huaringas. Al final de cuentas, todo es cuestión de fe.
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Hildegard WillerArtículo publicado originalmente en La Insignia y forma parte de los mejores trabajos finales de la Promoción 2006 del Diploma de periodismo político y análisis cultural de la Universidad Antonio Ruiz de Montoya (Perú) .

 


 
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