Lo que parecería un gesto de civismo ecológico de parte de un consorcio empresarial esconde una realidad más compleja…
Robert Scarcia

Ecoturismo y feudalismo en Puerto Piña Robert Scarcia

Panamá / Temas Cuando el bimotor de las conexiones domésticas se prepara al aterrizaje (o al despegue) en Puerto Piña, se nota cierto nerviosismo entre aquellos pasajeros que suelen utilizar regularmente esta ruta aérea. Son los que saben que se trata de una pista difícil, encajada entre el océano y los montes, y que a menudo se inunda. Bastaría un mínimo de error por parte del piloto para que el vuelo termine en un choque involuntario y violento en contra de las olas del Pacífico o de los árboles de la selva de Darién.

Pero Puerto Piña es mucho más que una pequeña comunidad costera panameña cerca de la frontera colombiana. En los últimos años este pueblo se ha transformado en un lugar de refugio de los desplazados por la violencia en la "hermana república" de Colombia. Por otro lado, desde 1962, Puerto Piña es también un destino turístico, dado que en una bahía cercana al pueblo existe un consorcio turístico llamado por los locales el "Tropi". Excluyendo la agricultura y la pesca de subsistencia, el Tropi es la única "empresa" y fuente de trabajo para Puerto Piña. Lo atestigua la procesión cotidiana de empleados de vuelta a sus casas después de un día de trabajo, con camisetas con el logo del consorcio. Para dar un ejemplo de la influencia del Tropi en Puerto Piña baste pensar que en una población total de unas 700 personas, hasta 80 de ellas trabajan para el consorcio turístico.

Pero a parte de los turistas que embarcan y desembarcan de los bimotores, la presencia contundente del Tropi más bien se visualiza por otro fenómeno. Se trata de la presencia de muchachos locales que andan en pares con un impecable uniforme y que si no fuera por un detalle indicativo, parecerían, a primera vista, la sección panameña de los boy scout internacionales. El detalle que revela hasta que punto las apariencias pueden ser engañosas es el largo machete que llevan detrás de la espalda. Son estos los "guardabosques" del Tropi que se dirigen a sus tareas cotidianas en los montes cubiertos de selva, colindantes al pueblo.

Sin embargo, lo que parecería un gesto de civismo ecológico de parte de un consorcio empresarial esconde una realidad más compleja…

Todo el pueblo le conoce con el apodo de ‘Millo’. Es un ex concejal de Puerto Piña que tenía un proyecto de desarrollo para su pueblo y que tiene una percepción muy crítica de la presencia y la política del Tropi en su comunidad.

"Los equipos de guardabosques privados del Tropi impiden a los indígenas emberá del pueblo talar árboles y quemar parcelas para sembrar" cuenta. "Es verdad que la deforestación es un asunto grave, pero las comunidades a menudo no tienen otro remedio que vender leña para sobrevivir, y por otro lado es que aquí no hay máquinas agrícolas… el campesino emberá, arraigado aquí desde siempre, hacía tradicionalmente su siembra de subsistencia, lo que implica la quema de parcelas de bosque", explica.

La situación según Millo es muy grave: "Ya no hay arroz, ni maíz, productos que antes se exportaban de aquí hacia Panamá. Ahora ya no hay ni para la comida y hay que traer estos mismos productos originarios de aquí por barco de Panamá… Con los precios del transporte y los atrasos que se registran hay momentos en que hay penuria de comida" revela.

A pesar de estas palabras, Millo es todo menos un ‘anti-ecologista’. Confiesa que luchó en balde por un proyecto que hasta quería desarrollar el ecoturismo y "traer aquí ‘europeos de mochila’ interesados en conocer la selva del Darién, y quizás tener un par de lanchitas para ofrecer salidas de buceo en nuestra costa".

Le pregunto qué pasó con el proyecto. Me contesta que el Tropi lo hizo fracasar. Según Millo el consorcio turístico quiere extender su oferta más allá de lo que es su actividad tradicional, de la pesca deportiva para abarcar el ecoturismo. "No querían competencia y nos han hundido antes que estuviéramos a flote".

"Esperaba que como comunidad de Puerto Piña pudiéramos tener derecho a la tenencia de la tierra" explica. Concretamente el proyecto de Millo se articulaba en tres partes. Una parte del terreno estaba destinado a construir nuevas viviendas para la gente, otra parte debía de ser destinada al desarrollo de la agricultura para poder salir del problema de la quema de parcelas de bosque, y una tercera parte del terreno estaría destinada al desarrollo el ecoturismo. "Pero" cuenta que "desde que pedimos 4 mil hectáreas para la comunidad entramos enseguida en un conflicto de propiedad de la tierra con el Tropi".

"El consorcio turístico reivindicó derechos de propiedad sobre 11 mil hectáreas en base a unos documentos de venta muy antiguos, o sea relativos a la venta de una serie de fincas en el año 1914, y basaba su caso aduciendo que no había nadie en esta zona cuando el Topi inició las operaciones turísticas en 1962. Pero se equivocan" asegura. "Hay registros que confirman por ejemplo, que aquí hubo un primer bautismo en 1898. Se sabe, porque en esa ocasión vinieron de visita, desde Colombia, familiares del niño. Además, hemos descubierto que ya en 1907 daba clases en esta zona un maestro informal. Si había bautismo y un maestro es una clara señal de que había gente aquí en Puerto Piña…".

Le pregunto por qué entonces los documentos de venta. "Lo más probable es que alguna gente de pocos escrúpulos haya vendido propiedades sin decírselo a la comunidad, como si fuéramos… ganado".

Lo que duele más a Millo es que "ya habíamos encontrado financiadores del proyecto de ecoturismo con la cooperación española. Pero todo cayó en saco roto porque no había la parte legal comunal de la tierra y no pudieron financiarnos".

Al final, la comunidad le dio la espalda, y Millo perdió las elecciones del 2005. El antiguo concejal denuncia una situación que recuerda las relaciones feudales del medio evo europeo. "La comunidad tiene temor porque el Tropi es la única empresa de trabajo, y no tenemos la posibilidad de pagar un asesor legal para llevar el caso al gobierno central, sin contar que el Tropi ‘tiene buen manejo’ con el gobierno ‘perredista’ (Partido Revolucionario Democrático del presidente Martin Torrijos)".

En fin, una carrera cuesta arriba difícil de ganar sin hablar de golpes bajos. Millo dice haber recibido amenazas indirectas: "que me quedara quieto por que si no podría pasarme un accidente". Denuncia el ex concejal que el Tropi no ha hecho ninguna obra social para la comunidad. "Ni siquiera querían la electrificación, dado que decían que eran los dueños de la tierra". Un cínico podría pensar que querían que la gente de Puerto Piña se quedara sin luz para enseñar a los turistas: ejemplares de personas que siguen sin luz en el siglo 21… "No hay una obra social financiada por ellos" insiste, "no hay un teléfono público que no esté estropeado. Podrían montar un programa de becas para los hijos de sus empleados, yo mismo se los pedí… pero la única inversión es sobre los trabajos de mejora de la pista del aeropuerto…".

"No quiero que el Tropi desaparezca", concluye el antiguo concejal "quiero el derecho a la tierra de la comunidad sin pedir permiso a un consorcio turístico".

Explico a Millo que en casos en que se da una dependencia casi feudal entre un pueblo y una empresa y se quiere denunciar la situación, es saludable tener alternativas concretas e inmediatamente viables. Sin embargo, Millo piensa que una acción contundente que pueda visibilizar la realidad que se da en Puerto Piña sería positiva, porque desataría la competencia a nivel de otros grupos interesados del ecoturismo en la zona. Está convencido que esto daría nuevo margen de maniobra a la gente de la comunidad, interesada en romper el monopolio.
__________________
Robert Scarcia, periodista ítalo-canadiense.


 
Revista Mirada Global © Copyright 2009
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